The reason the coolant goes into the radiator is to let air to pas through it and cool the coolant. If you aren’t driving fast sufficient to push air through the radiator, then the fan will pull the air through. The fan improves cooling when you are moving at slow speeds, or if the engine is idling. It is frequently mounted on the water pump shaft, and is turned by the same belt that drives the water drive and the alternator, although it could be mounted as an autonomous unit. Most independently, and it takes power from the locomotive to spin. For this reason a thermostatic control, or the fan clutch, is often used to reduce drive torque when it isn’t wanted (variable-speed fan). A dissimilar type of fan uses centrifugal force to shift its supple plastic blades, by flattening them when the engine rpm is high (flexible-blade fan). The fewer angles the blades have, the less authority they use. The idea of these units is to put aside horsepower and reduce the sound the fan makes.

A fan could have from four to six blades to suck the air through the radiator. Often the radiator has a shroud for the fan to stay it from recirculation the same hot air that has composed behind the radiator. Many fans have erratically spaced blades to reduce resonant noise. Electric Fans Front-wheel drive engines mounted crossways generally use electric fans to cool the engine. The radiator is situated in the usual place, but an electric motor drives the fan. A thermostatic switch is used to twist the fan on and off at predetermined hotness settings, which it senses. The exception to this is air training. If you turn on the air conditioner, you bypass the thermostatic switch, and the fan runs incessantly. If you turn off the air conditioner, the thermostatic switch is re-activated, and goes back to rotating the fan on and off, according to its instructions. Many cars have one electric fan for usual cooling and a separate one just for when the air conditioner is on. There are some actually nice features about the electric fan.